Last night I was more relaxed when I woke up breathless once again. It’s just a mental thing. One deep inhale, continue normal breathing. However, I strongly recognize my body has some troubles with the altitude.

This morning we met at 04.30 for a coffee and a cigarette in the kitchen of Ngawang Friendship Lodge. We started hiking up to Gokyo Ri in the dark, but the sun was rising soon. It took about 2,5 hrs until I arrived at the peak at 5.360 meters – but could be done faster without a flu and constant breathlessness 😉 Additionally, the view from Gokyo Ri is really breathtaking, even it was cloudy that morning. After we walked down and had breakfast in Gokyo, I thought I wasn’t able to do any further step today. But no discussions were allowed, we left Gokyo at 11am heading for Thagnak. We had to pass the Ngozumpa glacier, which was really difficult! The underground is sandy and slippery, often the path is blocked by rock falls you have to cross, and you have to be very aware of another one coming down. That’s why the path is also difficult to spot between the rocks, I won’t recommend passing the glacier without a guide. Beyond, the landscape could be a scenery out of “Lord of the Rings”. Little green and brown hills studded with huge black rocks, the impressive mountains behind. Weather was changing quickly from really hot to freezing windy. At about 2pm we finally arrived Thagnag, another tiny village with some lodges. Sun was shining and after lunch I had a wonderful sunbath (with a few jackets and pants), watching the yaks passing by and listening to the roar river. I stayed at “Khumbila Hotel” overnight, which still had an indoor toilette (with frozen floor 😝) and a sink with running water, coming from a bucket, and some ice lumps inside. Beds are incredible hard, the blankets you get might be used for summertime. But I’m not thinking about giving up anymore.