Gokyo/EBC Day 15: Lukla – Kathmandu & my review

Back to Kathmandu! I still don’t grasp the system of the flights to/from Lukla. I guess it doesn’t matter which flight you’ve booked, you will be checked for the next available flight. Check-in 5 minutes before departure. If you have to wait though, wrestling is shown on screens at Lukla airport. However, I had a pleasant flight and arrived safely in Kathmandu.

Residing in my comfort zone again felt rarely so good. The conditions during the trek were at my limit. I was mostly afraid of the cold temperatures, which was a tough factor certainly. But I got used to it, a pot of tea and my hot-water bottle (I’m so glad I had it) made it bearable. More challenging were my flu and the altitude symptoms. At the beginning of the trek at the lower altitude, I was surprised about myself how fast I can walk uphill. But it changed quickly above 4.000 meters. I was constantly out of breath and had to stop permanently. Even flat paths became very strenuous and off the trek even little movements made me breathless. Combined with difficulty sleeping, I always felt exhausted. In higher altitudes, headache and dizziness tortured my body and my mind furthermore. Also my nails got extremely brittle, but it’s a less troubling effect. Particularly long days on the trek caused back and hip pain. To sum up, the altitude hurt me straight. I’ve booked 4 hours in a spa as I returned to Kathmandu.

The second strain was the price level in the mountains. I understand that all goods have to be carried by porters or transported by helicopter, and of course that fact justifies higher prices. But some things are just immoderate. I stopped buying bottled water as the prices for 1 liter reached NPR 300 (NPR 100 ≈ USD 1) in Machhermo and only drank tap water with purifying pills; a Steripen might be a good idea, but it has to be recharged. In Gorak Shep, no tap water was available and they charged NPR 400 for one bottle. Even filling my hot-water bottle cost NPR 350. One box of tissues took up to NPR 250 (I had a flu!). Hot showers are such a pleasure after a long day on the trek, but I only had two showers during the entire trip. In Gorak Shep, you have to pay NPR 1.000 for a hot bucket (!) shower. Wifi don’t has to be transported naturally, but the charges vary from NPR 500 to 650, while it’s often not unlimited. Charging your devices costs about NPR 300 per hour. Everything is getting exorbitant expensive as higher you get. That’s annoying and can ruin the easy spirit.

But such a trek is not about personal comfort nor budget traveling. It’s about the adventure. Those adventures you can tell your grandkids. Those adventures your dreams are made of. Those adventures which make all pain forgotten the next day. Those adventures which make you stronger. Those adventures which make your eyes sparkling. And it was exactly that kind of adventure. I’m super proud and happy I MADE IT!

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